Microneedling – also known as Collagen Induction Therapy (CIT) – is a skin treatment in which small, sterile needles create microscopic wounds in the skin. These controlled injuries trigger the body's own healing process and lead to the formation of new collagen and elastin[1].
How does microneedling work?
When the skin is injured – even microscopically – a complex healing cascade is activated:
- Inflammatory phase: Growth factors are released (PDGF, TGF-β, VEGF)
- Proliferative phase: Fibroblasts are activated and produce new type I and III collagen
- Remodelling phase: The new collagen is organised and strengthens the skin's structure (3–6 months)
The result is firmer, smoother and more toned skin – without the superficial epidermis being damaged in the same way as with laser treatments.
Dermapen – the modern method
Dermapen® is the best-known brand of automated microneedling device. It uses a motorised pen with 12–36 microscopic needles that move vertically at high speed (up to 110 punctures per second). The advantages compared with a hand-held "dermaroller":
- Adjustable depth (0.2–2.5 mm)
- Consistent precision
- Less tissue damage
- Faster recovery
- Better reach in hard-to-access areas (the sides of the nose, around the eyes)
Other modern variants include SkinPen® (FDA-approved) and Dermapen 4.
What is treated with microneedling?
- Acne scars – one of the most evidence-based areas of use[2]
- Fine lines and wrinkles
- Large pores
- Skin texture and unevenness
- Stretch marks (striae)
- Hyperpigmentation and sun damage
- Sagging skin (mild to moderate)
- Hair loss (medical indication, often in combination with PRP)
What does the treatment involve?
A typical session takes 45–60 minutes:
- Consultation and skin analysis
- Cleansing of the area
- Numbing cream is applied (takes effect in 20–30 minutes)
- Microneedling – the practitioner moves the pen over the skin in several directions
- Serum or mask is applied directly to the treated skin
- Sun protection is applied
Recovery time
The skin's reaction after microneedling depends on the needle depth:
- 0.25–0.5 mm: Mild redness, disappears within hours
- 0.5–1.0 mm: Redness for 24–48 hours, feels like mild sunburn
- 1.0–2.5 mm: Redness and swelling for 2–4 days, possible flaking
Combination treatments
Microneedling + PRP
"Vampire facial" – microneedling is combined with platelet-rich plasma from your own blood. PRP contains concentrated growth factors that further stimulate collagen production.
Microneedling + skin booster/Profhilo
Hyaluronic acid is applied directly after microneedling and is absorbed deeper into the skin thanks to the microchannels.
Microneedling + serum with exosomes or peptides
High-quality serums can penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and enhance the effect.
Number of treatments and duration
For the best results, the following is recommended:
- 3–6 sessions, 4–6 weeks apart
- Maintenance: 1–2 times a year
- Results visible: Gradually over 4–6 weeks; full effect after 3–6 months
Risks and side effects
Microneedling is generally very safe when performed by trained staff. Common, transient side effects:
- Redness and dryness
- Mild swelling
- Itching during healing
- In rare cases: hyperpigmentation or infection
Microneedling is not recommended in cases of: active acne with pustules, infections, eczema in the area, bleeding disorders, isotretinoin treatment within the last 6 months, or during pregnancy.
Microneedling vs alternatives
| Method | Principle | Recovery | Sessions |
|---|
| Microneedling | Mechanical injury | 1–3 days | 3–6 |
| Fractional laser | Thermal injury | 3–7 days | 3–5 |
| Chemical peel | Chemical exfoliation | 2–7 days | 3–6 |
| HIFU | Ultrasound | None | 1 |
